Time for some swimming 🏊♀️
We said our goodbyes to Carlotta the Camel and hit the open road again to Alice Springs. We needed to pop to a shop so headed straight into the Northern Territorys third largest settlement, but definitely most remote, being 1500km from both Darwin and Adelaide. We'd been warned about Alice Spring, the town has recently received negative press due to social issues leading to increased crime rates and violence. However, it's impossible to avoid as you head up the middle of Australia on it's one road. We headed west however, into the West MacDonnell Ranges, a mountain range with plenty of gorges which are great for a swim, before we get into Crocodile country.
Ou first stop was Simpsons Gap which is popular with Rock Wallabys but I think was a bit too hot for them so we didn't spot any. We then carried on to Ellery Creek Big Hole, which is a permanent water hole so we were very much looking forward to a dip. We did then see our first bit of rain for a while which we were enjoying the cloud cover of, until we tried to sleep and it was our hottest night yet as the cloud keeps the heat in at night. We branched away from our usual meal of either pasta, rice, or noodles to treated ourselves to beans on crumpets, so a good evening.
It's been reaching 40°C everyday since we left Port Augusta, mostly in the afternoons, so it's best to be doing stuff mornings and evenings. We've been managing fine, plenty of suncream and water, but it's the nights I think we find the hardest. We spent our next night by a water hole so we could refresh with a morning swim which was delightful.
We set off the next day towards the Ormiston Gorge, stopping for some phone signal along the way. There is reception on and off but in the MacDonnell Ranges had been our longest time without contact and we needed to do some Googling about where to stay next. There are these spots dotted about where you slot your phone infront of the big disc and it boosts the signal. At Ormiston Gorge we did a short walk up to a view point looking down the gorge, then looping down into it. Once at the bottom dripping with sweat we were straight in the water. Our final stop along the Ranges was Glen Helen Gorge another waterhole, we were enjoying cooling down.
As it's been super hot, it's not the most popular timeto be doing this route so we've been lucky enough to have these places to ourselves. Whilst floating in Glen Helen Gorge, I think it was the most chilled out I'd been in years. I said to Matt when ever I need to really relax in the future I would mentally bring myself back to that moment.
We spent the next night on the edge of Alice Springs, heading back into town the next day to visit an op shop (charity shop). Matt had realised he'd left his cap in the showers at the campsite at Uluru, and there was no chance we were going back for it. We went up Anzac Hill in the centre of the town which gives views of this crazy place in the middle of the desert and then to the Telegraph Station as you head north. The little museum there gives a great insight into the construction of the telegraph wire which linked Adelaide to Darwin in 1871, it continued on from Darwi , connecting Australia to the telegraph network of the British Empire. This meant messages that used to take months by sea now could come down the line in 5 hours, so quite a change. It also was great at talking about the relationship between the newcomers and the local aboriginal population alongside the difficulties of living a working in such an arid environment.
We then had two days putting our foot down and trying to cover some ground. We stopped for the night at the Karlu Karlu campground, known as the Devil's Marbles. We were there for sunset so got to watch the golden light on the spherical rocks, then a cat appeared who we tried to give some water too but it appeared to have never dealt with humans. There was also a thunder storm that night which meant our sleep wasn't only hampered by the heat. It also meant our table blew off the roof of the van, we put it there after some evenings when we know we're going to want it for brekkie the next day. This works fine if there isn't a storm in the night, the table was okay, just needed bending back into shape.
Another big travel day ended at Daly Waters, a place we'd been recommended to stay. It has a very quirky pub that's littered with things that people have left/given. Clothing, IDs, money, stickers, all sorts. We treated our selves to some pub grub which was very good and much needed.
We're excited as we're getting closer to Darwin and some of the great National Parks of the Northern Territory, however it all comes with a much more humid climate so the hot nights aren't going to end anytime soon!
Lots of love,
Lisa and Matt 💕
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